Audacity: a free multi-track audio editor with a lot of plug-ins. Let see how to import and use some of them!

In my post Nice tools/services (for free) … and other useful links I already listed Audacity as a very nice tool. I already said that it is a free multi-track audio editor and recorder (for Windows; LADSPA plug-ins 0.4.15 installer. It contains over 90 plug-ins (i.e. Plug-Ins) that you can download to use additional effects and filters: you can find even more looking into its forum. For example you can find a De-Clicker and new De-esser for speech plug-ins that you can add in Audacity in order to use some them.

The following link allows you to add the LAME MP3 encoder – so allowing Audacity to export MP3 files. As an payment alternative (limited free use): GoldWave or Sound Forge Audio Studio.


In the following there are some screenshot that show how to import and use a new plug-in (e.g. De-Clicker).

First you need to download the plug-in for example from an post of the Audacity forum.

Then you have to put it among other available plug-ins in the proper Audacity program directory (i.e. by default C:\Program Files (x86)\Audacity\Plug-Ins ). Possibly

Finally, from the Effects menu item, select Add/remove plug-ins: you can choose to select all pug-ins and activate all of them or select New and enable the ones you want to add (e.g. DeClicker).


As written by the autor, De-Clicker is designed for filtering of natural but undesirable noises that take a few milliseconds to decay, not for repairing spikey damage to a digitized signal. I did not intend this for music or vinyl repair, but I would like to hear whether it has unexpected other uses.

The default settings in both tools are the ones I favor now for treatment of whole tracks. Do you have different opinions about good default settings? Let me know.

I successfully treat most of the more resistant clicks by hand with a single pass and double the number of bands: NOT by lowering the dB threshold control. But such settings may be too slow and too aggressive for batch treatment. Yet the nice thing is that you do not have to select the interval around the click very narrowly. The surrounding signal is usually unaffected. So select it and fix it and move on, don’t fuss with zooming in and out.

I treat typically no more than a half hour at once. Compute time does unfortunately go nonlinearly with length of the track to some extent. Not sure why. (I’ll blame garbage collection.) But I have improved performance much over the previous version.

As mentioned below, do low-frequency rolloff (highpass filtering) before De-Clicker for slight improvement of some results.

Detailed advice about settings:

  • In either tool, choose Apply Changes to hear just the results. Or, choose Isolate Changes to hear only what is subtracted from your signal. You don’t want to hear a lot of “murmur” so that you almost understand the words: your settings are taking overtones out of your vowels and muffling the voice. You may notice that the attack of many consonants is somewhat affected, but you might judge that this is acceptable and sometimes even helpful.
  • If you duplicate a track, then isolate changes in one, you can listen to the tracks together to hear the repaired sound (the isolated clicks interfere destructively), or mute one to hear just the original or just the subtractions. You might silence corrections you don’t want before mixing. I don’t do any of this once I find settings I trust.
  • Both tools specify a range of frequencies and a number of frequency bands (of equal width in log-frequency) for detection and repair. Impatient for results? Use fewer bands, or raise the bottom of the range. I find it valuable to repair the low frequencies too in speech (certain lip-closing thumps and rattles in the sibilants get removed) but the lower frequency bands do take more computation time. De-esser performance is not too bad with many high frequency bands: but very few bands may give poor results, affecting vowels.
  • Both tools specify a step size for precision in identifying the intervals to repair. You might trade precision for speed.
  • Both tools specify another time period for cross-fading of repairs around each clicky interval. Make it too short and you introduce undesirable artifacts. This setting should not affect computation time significantly.
  • The De-Esser has a dB threshold which is the amplitude within each frequency band, to which, the band is trimmed back. -20dB is my default setting, and -20dB and above is also what appears white in spectrogram views with default settings.
  • De-Clicker has a threshold in dB which is not absolute, but relative: a band must rise so much over a short interval for a click to be detected. I repeat, subtle clicks may be treated better not with a lower threshold, but with more numerous and narrow bands.
  • De-Clicker specifies a minimum separation between clicks. Make it too small, and more clicks will be identified, but there may be too much damage to voice when it drops in pitch. There is also a dB threshold (for the entire signal) below which closer clicks may be detected. This may help clean up crackles in de-voiced intervals and breaths. Use low-frequency rolloff effects first for better results!
  • De-Clicker can specify a number of times to repeat treatment, and a maximum click length in steps, which need no explanation.
  • De-Clicker can also just make labels around clicks without repairing them. This information may be useful, for instance, if you want to find dB threshold setting just low enough to detect certain of the clicks.


Pubblicato in Review e test, Tecnologia, Windows | Lascia un commento

Remote assistance in Windows 10

Se desideri veder tradotto questo post in italiano, segui le indicazioni presenti in un mio precedente post (Come veder tradotta una pagina di un sito nella propria lingua madre).


This is an update of an old post of 2015, where I give some more details and add news related to how to get a remote control of a PC, not only in a local network but even from Internet, possibly for getting a remote assistance from a trusted skilled user.

Sometime, using a PC,  you need to give/get a help from remote! As its predecessors, Windows 10 includes a cool Remote Assistance feature, that allows you to seek the help of a friend/technician in setting up your computer over Internet. I know that there are several alternatives to Microsoft Remote Assistance (e.g. TeamViewer) … but why install another SW when that functionality is already embedded in the OS and it is free?

So, let see how to configure the Windows 10  Remote Assistance

  1. First you need to set the “Allow Remote Assistance connection to this computer” option on your computer.
    This can be done in two ways. The easiest can be to reach the System Properties windows from the Notification panel (1 step) available in the right of the bottom toolbar, choosing  All Settings tile (1.1 step ), searching remote assistance (2 step) (IT: assistenza remota) and choosing Allow Remote Assistance invitations to be sent from this computer (step 3):

    An other way to do the same setting is to go to Control Panel -> System and Security -> System – Remote settings and, in a similar way, check the “Allow Remote Assistance connection to this computer” option.
    Note that if the PCs were on the same network and/or you know the address assigned to the remote one, you could use the Remote Desktop Connection application: if so, you need to set, in the remote PC (always in the same System Properties window), the option Allow remote connections to this computer in the same Remote tab, but in the Remore Desktop bottom section. But this is an other matter!
    Now that we are talking about giving a remote assistance on Internet to a PC  with an unknown IP address, what you have to do is to set  Allow Remote Assistance connections to this computer in the following  Remote Assistance section of the Remote tab in the System Properties window:

Enable Remote Assistance on the PC that needs help

  1. Second, you have to run the Windows Remote Assistance client to invite someone you trust to help you or use the same client to help someone who has invited you.
    However, for some reason, Microsoft did not add this Remote assistant client in  the All Programs list so you have to launch it from somewhere else. One way is to use the “Invite  someone to connect to your PC and help you or offer help someone else” link (step 4 in the Windows Settings screenshot seen before, after searching for remote assistance – IT: assistenza remota).
    Alternatively, and perhaps easier to be done, you can directly launch that client program from the Run (IT: Esegui) popup windows:  on the keyboard, press simultaneously windows button and r key -> windows button + r . Then,  in the input field insert the name of the program msra.exe and then click OK to run it:
Run msra.exe, the Remote Assistance client

Launching the Remote Assistance client running msra.exe (Windows button + r , type msra.exe, click OK)

If you use this feature frequently, it could be convenient to create a shortcut to this executable (C:\Windows\System32\msra.exe), right-clicking on the desktop background and choosing New->Shortcut and configuring it.

Create a shortcut for msra.exe

Create a shortcut for msra.exe

Create a shortcut for msra.exe (2)

Create a shortcut for msra.exe (2)


NOTE – It could happen that, when you run that Remote Assistance client the first time, the following alert appear, saying that the computer is not set up to send invitations. In this case you need to click the Repair button in order to identify (and possibly let Windows 10 solve automatically) the cause of that warning:

In fact, most of the time the cause is a firewall setting that, by default, could possibly block the Remote Assistance: do not worry, Windows 10 will do the right configuration for you! 😉
Note that you should be administrator of the PC to allows those changes, so please provide an administrator credentials to allow this repair: take into account that the default user of a Windows 10 PC has the administrator rights by default.

Possibly it is a firewall setting that should be changed: administrator credentials are requested

After fixing that problem, close the troubleshooter and launch again the Remote Assistance client:

This time the Windows Remote Assistance client will run properly showing several ways to let you invite a trusted helper. In the following, I will show the most common one that is using an email invitation. Choosing that option, a compatible email client is launched attaching the proper invitation: you only need to specify the email of the trusted helper and send that already prepared email. Moreover, a password will be created and it must be provided (possibly by phone) to the remote user in order he will be able to connect to your PC.

Alternatively, if you don’t have a mail client installed on your PC, but you are using for example a site to sent emails with the browser, you have to choose the first option (i.e. Save the invitation as a file) and then attach that created file to a new email composed as you are used to …

The trusted helper user will receive that email, it will click on that attached file that will be used by the Remote Assistance client to create the remote connection with your PC through Internet, after having inserted the password provided by you.

The password, provided by the requested user, must be inserted to give the Remote Assistance.

At this point, the remote helper user will see your PC desktop, seeing what you are possibly doing but he cannot take the control of the mouse and of the PC.
If there is the need to let the remote helper user to directly do some operation on your PC, he need to click on the Request control item (at the upper menu, on the left) and the requesting user must allows that remote control properly clicking on a popup windows that it will appear on his desktop.

Note that, even when the remote helper user have the control of the PC, the local user will maintain the control … so both can interact with the PC with keyboard and mouse.

To let the remote helper user take the control of your PC, the Request control menu item must be clicked by him and the you, as local user, must allows it

At the end, in order to stop the remote assistance the helper user should click on the Stop sharing menu item (at the upper menu, on the left, so available in the same place where initially there was the Request control item) .


If you need more information on the Remote Assistance in Windows 10, you can also see the following links:


See also Microsoft Remote Desktop assistant
(first version released since 1/27/2016) that allows you to get the remote control of a PC even from a whatever device (even from a smartphone). An app version is available now also in the Store, as described afterwards.

Clicking on Download button a rdassistant.application file is downloaded: launching it allows to have the Microsoft Remote Desktop assistant application installed:

Desktop application version of the Microsoft Remote Desktop

The application will start and you can run the application by clicking Install. After launching the application and accept the license terms, you can begin setting up your PC for remote access. After completing configuration you are now ready to use our Remote Desktop applications from another device to access your PC.
To get started follow the instructions below for your specific device:

  1. Android
  2. iOS
  3. Mac
  4. Windows 10

However, as stated in the Details, it is now suggested to use the app version: ” *** Starting with Windows 10 Fall Creators Update (1709), look for Remote Desktop under System in the Settings app (IT: Desktop Remoto Microsoft) instead of using the Remote Desktop Assistant ***”.
Therefore, going to Settings/Remote Desktop page, you can get the direct link of the Microsoft Remote Desktop app and let install it:

Microsoft Remote Desktop app available from the Store

App version of the Microsoft Remote Desktop

If you install both the desktop and app versions of the Remote Desktop, you will have in both among the applications available from Start:

Pubblicato in Aziendali, Review e test, Tecnologia, Windows, Windows Phone/Mobile | Lascia un commento

ECOCERT: come interpretare la colonna relativa ai contributi settimanali utili ai fini pensionistici

Non sempre le comunicazioni dell’INPS sono implicitamente chiare. Mi è arrivato da tempo un ECOCERT che indica valori differenti di contributi totali nelle colonne relative a “Per requisito contributivo collegato all’età” e “Per requisito contributivo in alternativa all’età“. Il motivo di ciò attualmente mi è sconosciuto ma ho visto, ricercando su internet che può essere dovuto a diversi fattori (e.g. disoccupazione NASPI o altri contributi figurativi quali per malattia, maternità, disoccupazione, cassa integrazione, invalidità). Nel mio caso specifico, ignoro con precisione perché i dati delle due colonne differiscano …

Anche contattando l’INPS e quindi telefonando al numero verde dell’INPS (803164) incredibilmente non mi hanno saputo dare una risposta che mi aiutasse a comprendere quale delle due colonne considerare ai fini del calcolo dei contributi ai fini della pensione anticipata!

Nessuna riposta utile dall’INPS sia contattandoli via modulo online sia telefonando al numero verde 😦

Solo dopo avere ricercato su Internet e chiesto ai referenti del sindacato ho inteso che la prima colonna si riferisce ai contributi utili al fine di raggiungere i 35 anni di “contribuzione effettiva” mentre la seconda colonna riporta i contributi necessari al raggiungimento di quelli utili ai fini della pensione anticipata (compresi dunque anche contributi figurativi). Il primo dato, relativo all’età, è connesso con la pensione di vecchiaia mentre l’altro con l’anticipata. Poiché generalmente si accede all’isopensione con la pensione anticipata, il numero di contributi utili da considerare sono quelli indicati nella seconda colonna, quindi quella con il numero maggiore 😉


Potrebbe interessarti anche un mio post precedente sul calcolo della pensione


Pubblicato in Aziendali, Giustizia, burocrazia e malcostume, Review e test, Tecnologia | Lascia un commento

Tips about solving problems in submitting data in a form

Very often you are asked to insert data in a forms to send some data to a site, possibly to register yourself somewhere or to buy something or to declare something.

Unfortunately not all sites are done in the proper way in order to show whatever input error the user can do providing the requested information. Too often most of the possible input errors are handled by a global try & catch clause that shows the user a generic error due to a generic problem encountered … and that does not help at all to understand what you should do to finally have that form submitted!!
For more, too often that generic error message shows a wrong cause that let the user try again and again without no success.
That was the case of the form set by Fujifilm in its Fujifilm connect site, that a user have to fill in order to claim a cashback for having bought some professional Fujifilm lenses. In that form you have to put some information like your personal data, the date of purchase, upload both the receipt and a photo of the serial number of the bought lens.
I did it but I always received, submitting the form, the following error: “The system is unavailable! Try again!“.

Generic (and wrong) cause error when I submitted the form data

I inserted all the mandatory fields (stressed by the * symbol), loaded all the requested files and checked all the agreement they requested from me. Supposing that the shown error was not the right one, I even tried both to use the date icon to set the purchase date, in order the format of the inserted date would be set as they would like, and to save the photo of the serial number on the lens as a low quality/size file. No way to get that form submitted!!

All mandatory fields were inserted

The data was inserted using the data icon in order to be sure that the format was the one they expected. All the requested files to be uploaded set.

Finally the problem was in the file name of some of the files I had to upload (for that SW they were possibly too long or with blank characters: WP_20190306_21_46_49_Pro_low.jpg , Invoice Fujifilm Fujinon XF 100-400mm CONTINI ENZO.pdf): in fact, when I set their name as simpler as possible (e.g. file1.jpg, receipt.pdf) the submission worked fine!!! Therefore the error The system is unavailable! Try again!” was a completely misleading indication …


Therefore, if you get some error in submitting a form in a site, whatever error is shown to you on the screen, do not believe that necessarily that is the real cause of the problem and try the following:

  • Check to have inserted all the mandatory fields (usually stressed by the * symbol)
  • Check to have checked all the agreements they request
  • Use the possible available date icon to set a date, in order to be sure its format is the one they want (e.g. DD/MM/YYYY)
  • If there are files to be uploaded, please
    • let them be at a low size (e.g. less than 500Kb) possibly using an image editor,
    • let their name be as simpler a possible (few chars, no special characters or spaces),
    • try also to have them with a different file extension (e.g. doc, pdf, jpg).
Pubblicato in Just for fun!, Review e test, Tecnologia | Lascia un commento

Windows 10: how to set a default app for email, web browser and more

Sometime some friend ask me how to let Windows 10 choose the more appropriate app for you when you click on a file with a specific extension (e.g. a .jpg photo).
Windows 10 has its default apps but possibly they are not all the ones you would like. For example, you would like to use Outlook to open an email and not the Mail app as it is configured by default.
In particular, if you use Outlook desktop application as your preferred email client, it is annoying to get Mail app open every time you click on a new email notification from the Notification panel. However notifications in that panel comes from all the running app/applications: so, at the reception of a new email, you will receive a notification from both Mail and Outlook 2016. Note that the notification from Outlook 2016 will arrive only if that desktop application is running, while the one from Mail app comes anyway, even though that app was not launched before.

A notification from Outlook 2016 will arrive only if that desktop application is running

The notification from Mail app comes anyway, even though that app was not launched before

Furthermore note that you could use Outlook app, from a Office 365 subscription, as a mail client and not the free Mail app, usually available on every Windows 10 device.

In the following the few steps to let for example change the default application for email.
The procedure is very easy but I notice that possibly it should be repeated after some major Windows 10 update.

The same page could be reached also from the Control Panel desktop application, going to Programs section and then to the Default Programs one:

Clicking on the proper section (e.g. the Email one), you can then choose the default application: note that anyway, right clicking on a file, you can always choose a different application to open whatever file.

Pubblicato in Review e test, Tecnologia, Windows | Lascia un commento

That’s a Mole: in attesa di una prossima edizione, alcune rielaborazioni di opere proposte in passato ;-)

Anni fa avevo scritto il seguente post relativo al concorso internazionale That’s a Mole: That’s a Mole!! Bella iniziativa a cui partecipare … 😉

All’inizio del 2019 c’è stato un analogo concorso il Concorso internazionale d’illustrazione Bo it! alla prima edizione … direi “copia” di quello That’s a Mole. Quest’ultimo, giunto lo scorso anno alla 5 edizione, quest’anno (a quanto ho inteso) non si farà, penso per mancanza di adeguati finanziamenti 😦
Si legge invece (e.g. che l’analogo concorso di Bologna, pur essendo alla prima edizione, ha ottenuto contributi da parte sia della Fondazione del Monte sia della Coop oltre ad essere sostenuto tra l’altro dal Comune di Bologna.

Personalmente trovo che la forma della Mole di Torino sia decisamente più particolare e suggestiva rispetto a quella proposta delle due torri di Bologna … e quindi più idonea per ispirare gli artisti! Speriamo dunque che la bella iniziativa di That’s a Mole riprenda il prossimo anno, grazie magari anche ad una maggiore attenzione da parte delle realtà locali …

Nell’attesa, pur avendo schizzi per diverse nuove idee da realizzare, mi sono per ora divertito a dare nuova e più completa forma alle proposte che avevo, due edizioni fa, inviato a quel concorso.
Ve le propongo in quanto poter spaziare su tutta una tela, oltre i confini del profilo della Mole, ovviamente lascia ancora maggiori libertà espressive 🙂 Per vedere com’erano originariamente, basta che vai al precedente post relativo a questo concorso!!

Pubblicato in Uncategorized | Lascia un commento

How to access private data of a Windows 10 app (e.g. how to set last backup file of All My Password app that does not work anymore with the OneDrive cloud)

Since this year, an app I bought from the Microsoft Store (All My Password) does not work properly because it is not able anymore to do a backup on a cloud (i.e. OneDrive) of its encrypted data. As you can immagine, an app for saving passwords that cannot allow neither to do a backup of its data nor to synchronize them among different devices (e.g. PCs, smartphone) is not useful at all!

All My Password was very basic also from the design point of view but till 12/2018 it worked as I expected. Instead now the Windows 10 PC  version crashes as soon as I try to access my OneDrive area to do a backup, while the Windows 10 Mobile version (for smartphones like Lumia 950XL) there are not displayed anymore the Upload/Download buttons (possibly shown only when there is an active connection with OneDrive). In both cases the result is the same: no backup and synchronization is possible anymore!! 😦
Note that that app was not a UWP one even though both have a similar user interface, so there are two different versions, one for mobile another for PC.

It is really a pity that the developer does not support that app and give no answer to people (like me) that bought it and ask for some help for this bug! Neither the support site nor the developer email shown in the page related to that app in the Store, are valid anymore!! I tried to post a message even in the Facebook site of EngAsh Digital providing information and screenshots of the problem … no way to get an answer!! 😦
I can understand that may be that app in the Microsoft Store could be bought only by few users … but that does not justify the misbehavior of that developer!! 😦

As usually happens, the more updated data were on my smartphone and I did the backup on the cloud only few months ago: however  I did not update on my PC where I rarely use that app! So, the most updated dato are on the Lumia 950XL, then on OneDrive the data saved few months ago, finally on the PC very old version of one year ago! The data are locally saved by the app in his storage and not externally the file system …
So how to proceed? How to recover the most recent data and manually insert them in another more serious app? How to access to the memory of the app to recover the locally stored data or, at least, substitute them in the PC with the more recent file available in OneDrive?
I think that similar situations can happen also in other cases, for an other app, … so the following procedure could be useful to someone else.

On a Windows 10 Mobile device it is not possible to access to the app data available in the local storage because it is private for security reasons. In fact that private data are not exposed as it happens for other public libraries (e.g. Documents, Photos): only the developer can access them using specific tools that works only when the app is manually loaded by the developer for testing (so, it is not installed from the Store).

On the contrary it is possible to access to local data in the PC version of an app. In this site it is shown how to access where Windows Store Apps are installed & how to access that folder, showing hidden directories and modifying user rights for a specific one.
However that is not the place where apps save their local storage. You need to go to the
folder to get the data for a specific <Package_Family_Name> app.
If you type the  %localappdata%\Packages\ string in a PC File Explorer, it will be valorize the %localappdata% system variable: in my case it shows the C:\Users\conti\AppData\Local\Packages directory.
Then if you want to explore the data of a specific app, you have to search the associated subdirectory (e.g. 57908EngAshDigital.AllMyPasswords_wk8kf0avr0eee for the app AllMyPassword of EngAshDigital). For that specific app, the searched backup data are in the Do_Not_Delete_Or_Edit_Me.txt file, the file with the same name of the backup file on OneDrive.

Therefore, I substituted that old file with the one available on OneDrive (backup of the smartphone app data, updated only few months ago), so now I can see that newer data running the app on the PC: from here it is easier to do a cut & past for saving that data somewhere else.


Once recovered the more recent data that it was possible, the matter was to choose another app for saving passwords:  it is an hard choice because I do not want to have to copy again all my passwords any more in the next future!! So it is convenient to choose not a proprietary solution that again could not be supported in a few years and possibly one that has several cross-platform clients available, possibly a standard/opensource one.

I know that Enpass could be a good solution because it is cross-platform and on Windows it is available in the Windows Store and it integrates well with Windows Hello: it allows to save data on different cloud provider, OneDrive too, so it is very flexible. Finally you have to pay only once when you buy it.
1Password should be a good choice too, but it is more expensive because it use a subscription model even though it give a greater assurance to be supported in the future.

Unfortunately both these apps are not UWP and are available for Windows 10 Mobile too and, because I still use my good Lumia 950XL (and I do not want to change it as far as I can!), I had to find an other solution!!

So I opted for  PassKeep  that is UWP app that seems to have a good support: there is an official website for this “free, open source, light-weight and easy-to-use password manager“. Moreover there are several clients that uses the                         PassKeep is a password manager that is interoperable with KeePass 2.x format for storing encrypted data.


A little at a time, using the cut&past feature, now I am going to copy data from All My Password to PassKeep

To have data synchronized among different devices I saved the Database.kdbx file in a OneDrive synchronized directory (e.g. C:\OneDrive\backup\keepass). Among PCs the synchronization is therefore done choosing in every PC the same OneDrive directory and Database.kdbx file.
Un fortunately this does not happen on a Windows 10 Mobile smartphone because its OneDrive client does not provide an automatic synchronization (in general, it is not the best scenario for a mobile device) but it only allows you to browse your account and save locally the files you need.

So, if I want to update the DB in my Windows 10 Mobile smartphone with the version on OneDrive, I have to download from that cloud the Database.kdbx file and, for example, save it in the local This device/Documents folder: then I can open it with the KeepPass app I installed on the smartphone.
NOTE that, because there was already a file with the same name (the old local version), you need to delete it before downloading the newer file from OneDrive or rename it to OLD: otherwise it will be saved as Database (2).kdbx as shown in the following screenshots and you need to rename it afterward.

Usually, because I usually insert/update passwords on my smartphone, the procedure I need more, from time to time, is another one, that is to backup the local DB on the smartphone to OneDrive. This can be done sharing the DB file to OneDrive, for example choosing to upload it on its \backup\keepass folder, that is the same directory I synchronized on PCs and that contains the file used by the KeepPass app in all PCs.

Share the\Documents\Database.kdbx file to OneDrive, choosing to upload it on its \backup\keepass folder (1)

Share the\Documents\Database.kdbx file to OneDrive, choosing to upload it on its \backup\keepass folder (2)

Share the\Documents\Database.kdbx file to OneDrive, choosing to upload it on its \backup\keepass folder (3)

NOTE that, because  there was already a file with that name, the newer file will be uploaded as Database 1.kdbx so you will need to delete the old one and rename the new one as Database.kdbx. In this way that file will be automatically synchronized in all your PCs with the proper name. To understand the newest file you can anyway always see its size (usually the newest is bigger because you possibly add new passwords) and its uploaded date too.

I know it is not an easy procedure, but neither a difficult one but it works … and possibly you need to do a backup only once a week or even less!!




Pubblicato in Review e test, Tecnologia, Windows, Windows Phone/Mobile | Lascia un commento